The short version: less than you think. Two camera bodies, two prime lenses, the film camera, a small flash I rarely use, and a notebook that matters more than all of it.
The rest
Spare batteries and cards in a separate pouch, a rain cover, a light tripod that doubles as a walking stick, and a laptop only for backups. Everything fits into one bag I can carry on my back for a whole day.
People expect a list of gear. What I actually pack first is time: no more than two stories per trip, so there is room to stay when something good happens.